Going Ashore in the Greek Islands: Corfu and Cephalonia

       

     Despite the Euro crisis, Greece, and the Greek islands in particular, remain a popular cruise destination.  After all, the qualities that made Greece popular in the first place  - -  mild climate, beautiful scenery, and an ancient history - - still remain.

            This week we focus on two of the Greek islands located in the Ionian Sea between the Greek mainland and Italy. 

            Corfu is a well-know destination, probably more so to British than American holiday makers.  Thus, in writing about Corfu, I wanted to focus on something other than the climate and scenery that have made the island famous.

            Accordingly, after giving some background and history of the island, I focused on two attractions that relate to a relatively recent chapter in the story of the island - - the Achellion Palace and the Mon Repos Palace.  In the 19^th century, Corfu became a popular escape for European royals and aristocrats.  The story of both of these palaces arises in that time period.

            Although they are called palaces, they do not compare to Versailles, Buckingham Palace, or the Peterhoff.  Rather, they are nice size country mansions.  Each has a beautiful setting with an other worldly quality.

            Yet, their stories both have an element of tragedy.  They promise an idyllic world but it is a promise unfulfilled in part due to the foibles of the inhabitants and in part due to the tide of human events.  They are the kind of story that appealed to the ancient Greek playwrights and one could well expect to see a Greek chorus standing upstage.

            Beyondships’ photo-illustrated article on going ashore in Corfu is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-corfu-greece.html.

            Cephalonia, sometimes called Kefalonia, is quite different than Corfu.  Although it is the largest of the Ionian islands and has a long history, it is not as developed or commercialized as Corfu.  The capital of the island Agrostoli is more of a large town than a city and the other population centers are just villages.

            This does not mean that there is nothing to do in Cephalonia.  The island is quite mountainous and with that comes dramatic scenery.  Indeed, the white pebble beach at Myrtos lying at the foot of almost vertical slopes rising a thousand feet or more above is one of the most spectacular that I have seen.

            Then there is the subterranean Melissani Lake.  Let your imagination go and this place will transport you to the world of nymphs and ancient heroes.

            Or one can sit in a harbor-side cafe in the quiet traditional village of Fiskardo and watch the rich and famous bring their yachts in so that they can explore this timeless place.

            I had not expected all that much from a port call in Cephalonia but it turned out to be a pleasant surprise.  The island is tourist friendly but at least as of this writing, it still maintains an unspoiled charm.

            Beyondships article about Cephalonia with photos is at  http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-cephalonia-greece.html  

Looking at Princess Cays and Great Stirrup Cay

            This week, we take a new look at two cruise line private islands - - Princess Cays and Great Stirrup Cay.   Private islands are ports of call that are owned and operated by a cruise line and only that cruise line’s ships (and those of affiliated companies) can call there.  Essentially, they are beach resorts where passengers can relax in the sun or participate in the water sports and activities available on the island.  Both Princess Cays and Great Stirrup Cay are located in the Bahamas.  

            Princess Cays is Princess Cruises’ private island although ships from some of Princess’ affiliates such as Cunard also occasionally call there.

            Ships calling at Princess Cays anchor offshore and usually use their lifeboats to ferry guests to the island.  You arrive at a dedicated marina that serves also to divide the resort complex in two.  There are more facilities north of the marina but the south side is rather pretty with its palms and carpet of sand.

            The island itself is long and narrow.   All of the beaches are on the western side of the island and all of the facilities face the beaches.  On the other side of the island is Paradise Lagoon, which has been left in its natural state.

            The complex reflects its owner’s style.  It is sophisticated but at the same time relaxed.  Princess Cays is big enough to accommodate everyone but not so big as to be overwhelming.

            Princess Cays continues to quietly evolve.  In the last few years, they have added a Sanctuary area.  As on the Princess ships, this area is adults-only and designed for pampering.  Also, the southern beach area has grown since the last time I was there.

            Beyondships new and expanded photo tour of Princess Cays begins at http://beyondships.com/Princess-PrincessCays.html      

            Like seemingly everything else at Norwegian Cruise Line, Great Stirrup Cay (GSC) is on the move.  The island is being transformed by a $25 million improvement project that began in 2010.

            It used to be that GSC was a quaint beachcomber-type of experience.  You were tendered ashore on former landing craft which would run up onto the beach, drop their front gate and you walked out onto the island’s one and only beach.  While this meant that you were close to the beach from the moment you landed, it also meant that part of the beach was the exclusive province of the tenders and off limits for recreational purposes.  In addition, the few buildings on the island - - bars and dining facilities - - were rather flimsy looking wooden structures that were not very impressive.

            Still, it made for a fun day at the beach.  The lack of sophistication helped to underscore that you were hundreds of miles from civilization with its work days and petty annoyances.

            While still an escape from the everyday, GSC is an altogether different experience today.  It is truly a private beach resort.  The tenders now arrive in their own marina.  You enter through a gate into the resort complex.  On the way to the beaches, you pass a new Bahamian market.  On the hill, there are the new dining facilities consisting of the kitchen/serving building and covered dining pavilions.  Like the rest of the new buildings at GSC, these are substantial concrete structures.

            The main beach is now dedicated to recreation, which means much more room.   In addition, there is now a second beach that rises up from the water to a ridge where luxury cabanas are under construction.

            Norwegian has also spread tons of sand throughout the complex.  In the old days, it was mostly rock away from the beach.  Now there is seemingly sand everywhere, which with the giant palm trees makes for a much more picturesque scene.

            But there is more to come.  Norwegian is busy building more facilities on the other side of the island.  These are to include an aqua park and a sting ray experience.

            Beyondships’ photo tour of Great Stirrup Cay is at http://www.beyondships.com/NCL-GreatStirrupCay.html    

Going Ashore - Three Unique Cruise Ports in Spain and Portugal

           This week, we go ashore on the Iberian peninsular, or to be more exact the western coast of Iberia.  The focus is on three ports in Spain and Portugal, each of which is quite different from the others.

            La Coruna, Spain is on the northwest coast of Spain.  For centuries ships have brought visitors here on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, which is about 39 miles inland.  Santiago is still a major attraction and many cruisers take an excursion there during port calls in La Coruna.  But La Coruna is more than just a dropping off point for Santiago.

            La Coruna has a unique charm.  Separated by mountains from the rest of Spain, it has its own style which has strains of its Celtic heritage mixed with Spanish influences.  Within walking distance of the cruise port, there is the old town with its narrow cobbled streets and medieval churches.  Also within walking distance are the 19^th-20^th century buildings with their glass enclosed balconies called “gallerias,” which have earned the city the nickname “Crystal City.”

            Beyondships’ illustrated article on La Coruna is posted at: http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-la-coruna-spain.html

            Further south is Oporto or Porto.  Like La Coruna, this is a very old port.  However, it is a much bigger city that was and is an important commercial center.  As a result, it has an altogether different atmosphere and style than La Coruna.

            Oporto is perhaps best known for its fortified wine.  Indeed, it seems like every shore excursion in Oporto involves a port wine tasting.  While there is more to the city than port wine, having a glass or two of port in one of the port lodges overlooking the Duoro River, can be a pleasant way to spend part of the day.

            Our article on Oporto is posted at: http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-oporto-portugal.html

            Lisbon is without question the leading cruise port on the west coast of Iberia.  It receives some 250,000 cruise visitors a year and demand is such that the port keeps increasing the capacity of its cruise port.

            Further south than Oporto, it is summer half the year in Lisbon.  The capital city of Portugal as well as a commercial center, Lisbon has a rich history reflected in its pleasing architecture.  Also, because it has had more to focus on than just business, the city is not so harsh.  Rather, it has a relaxed cosmopolitan feel.

            Beyondships article about Lisbon can be found at  http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-lisbon-portugal.html  

Cunard Celebrates The Diamond Jubilee and The Beatles

This week the focus is on celebrations.

            In early June, Cunard Line participated in the Diamond Jubilee celebrations marking the 60^th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II accession to the throne.  There were celebrations throughout the UK for this anniversary ranging from local street parties to a concert with a series of mega-stars outside of Buckingham Palace.

            Considering the long connection between Cunard and the Royal Family, and this monarch in particular, Cunard decided that it had to do something more than just send a card to mark the occasion.    Therefore, it planned a spectacular event where all three of its Queen ships would meet together in Southampton.

            Because of the legendary reputation of the Cunard Queens, their rare gatherings have been recognized not only by ship lovers but by the general public as special occasions.  The first gathering of three Queens occurred in New York in 2008 when Queen Elizabeth 2, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria were all in port together.  A few months later, the same three ships met in Southampton but because QE2 was there for a re-fit rather than to begin a voyage, the meeting was considered unofficial even though it generated significant attention.  Then, shortly after the new Queen Elizabeth entered service, she met with Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria in New York with all three ships exiting the harbor in a grand procession.

            For this year’s celebration, Cunard planned to have all three ships enter and exit Southampton harbor together.  In addition, there would be a display by Britain’s precision flying team The Red Arrows and a fireworks display as the ships left Southampton.  There would also be a day-long radio broadcast from the roof of the Carnival UK building which overlooks the harbor.   Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate.  It caused the cancellation of The Red Arrows performance and interfered with the fireworks.

            Still, it was a spectacular event.  The stars of the show in their black and white liveries and Cunard red funnels were majestic.  For those onboard the three ships, the proximity of the ships to each other was indeed an awesome sight.

            Beyondships’ photo essay of the celebrations (including a slide show) is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cunard-royal-jubilee-celebrations-part-one.html

            A much different type of celebration was the performances by The Beatles Celebration onboard Queen Mary 2 during one of her recent transatlantic crossings.  The Beatles Celebration is not just another Beatles tribute band but a show in which the performers place the audience in an imaginary Beatles performance.

            This show was particularly appropriate for Queen Mary 2.  While not mentioned as much as Cunard’s connections to royalty and its connection to the celebrities and movie stars of the 1930s, 40s and 50s, Cunard has a substantial connection to The Beatles and to the so-called British Invasion music of the 1960s.  In addition, a performance of this caliber fits nicely with the ship’s overall quality level.

            Beyondships’ review of The Beatles Celebration, including an interview with the cast, is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cunard-qm2-beatles-celebration.html          

Talking with the Captain and Hotel Director of Norwegian Star

Last week was an unusual week for Norwegian Star.  On June 26 during her weekly passage to Bermuda, the U.S. Coast Guard requested the ship to divert from her course in order to rescue two sailors.  Star answered the call and found the sailors adrift in the Atlantic in a sail boat that had a broken rudder.  Captain Harstrom, master of the Star, brought them aboard and out of danger.

While a rescue at sea is not an everyday occurrence, it is not surprising that the Star would handle it well.  She is a well-built ship, capable of doing 24 plus knots.  These days fuel economy is the watchword at all the cruise lines but when I was aboard the Star a few weeks ago, Captain Harstrom commented that life-threatening emergencies are one situation where the Star will make use of her speed.

This was part of a general conversation in which I asked Captain Harstrom to talk about the Star from a sailor’s perspective.  I thought such an introduction would be appropriate because the Star is a newcomer to New York.  Moreover, after she leaves New York, the Star is scheduled to take up residence in New Orleans and later Copenhagen, Denmark.  Thus, this talk may serve to introduce the ship to those port as well

Our conversation was not limited to nautical matters.  As the head of a large enterprise, Captain Harstrom is very much involved in motivating the crew.

In addition, I asked him to tell us why people should choose Norwegian Star for their vacation.

The interview is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/norwegian-star-captain-interview.html

    

            The largest department on Norwegian Star is the hotel department.  It has the most employees and includes just about everything that directly affects the guests’ cruise experience including the accommodations, the food, and the entertainment.  On the Star, Hotel Director Sean Wurmhoesinger brings a great deal of enthusiasm to his work.  You see him out and about encouraging the ship’s staff and interacting with the guests.  He says that hospitality is his philosophy.  I asked him to tell us a bit about that philosophy.  That interview is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/norwegian-star-hotel-director-interview.html