Carnival Ecstasy profile and photo tour

This week we present the 100^th ship to be profiled on Beyondships.com. There were less than a dozen ships profiled on the site when we started in 2007 and so it is with something of a feeling of accomplishment that we reach the century mark.

Our 100th ship is the venerable Carnival Ecstasy. Ecstasy is one of eight ships built for Carnival during the 1990s, which are collectively known as the Fantasy class. While all of the ships in the class were built to essentially the same design, one of the things that I have found interesting about exploring them is to see just how different they are one from the other.

One of the reasons they are different from one another is that their interiors were all originally designed by the same man, Joe Farcus. All of the Fantasy class ships have essentially the same interior layout. But Farcus made the corresponding rooms in each ship different. This does not mean that he used blue wall paper on one ship and red on the next to decorate a particular bar. Instead, he let his imagination run wild and produced some extravagant rooms each of which is unique.

For example, on Ecstasy you have the Chinatown Lounge complete with the entrance to a Chinese movie theater and a real delivery truck parked near the dance floor. There is the Neon piano bar, which has that name for a reason. Then there is the beautifully elegant Explorer's Club Library. Compare these to the corresponding rooms on say Carnival Fascination and you will see just how different rooms can be.

Also, Carnival has invested substantial amounts in refurbishing and revitalizing the Fantasy class ships over the years. As a result, there have been significant changes to the ships. For example, the pool deck areas have been transformed and given a resort-style look. A large water park has been added to the upper deck of each ship. An adult sanctuary has been added as have more rooms for the youth program.

But Carnival did not call in all of the Fantasy class ships at the same time and make these changes to all the ships at once. Thus, you can find differences between the ships that reflect changes in Carnival's thinking over time. For example, on Carnival Fantasy, the Camp Carnival youth center is on Deck 9 whereas on Ecstasy, it is on Deck 11.

Recently, Ecstasy's dance club was transformed as part of the Fun Ships 2.0 program. It now has the cool sophistication of the dance club on Carnival's latest ship Carnival Breeze.

Thus, while Carnival Ecstasy has many sisters, she does have her own distinct character and that is the way it should be.

Beyondship's profile of Carnival Ecstasy with copies of daily programs, menus and other information, is at http://beyondships.com/CarnivalEcstasy-Profile.html The multi-page photo tour of Carnival Ecstasy begins at http://beyondships.com/CarnivalEcstasy-Tour-1.html

Viewing the Changing of the Guard

The Coldstream Guards at the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace

Before or after taking a cruise from Southampton, Harech or Dover, many people stop in London. One of the things that visitors like to do when they are in London is go to see the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. Accordingly, I have written an article and posted some photos that explain something about the who and why of the Changing of the Guard.

It is part of the pageantry of the British monarchy and it also appeals to those who are interested in the military. Furthermore, many of us of a certain age had toy figures with black bearskin helmets and red tunics when we were small so there is also an element of nostalgia here.

The people that you see in front of Buckingham Palace are known as The Guards. They are not re-enactors but rather an elite military formation with a long proud combat history. The precision with which they perform their ceremonial tasks reflects the self-discipline that they bring to their military duties.

What exactly they are doing in front of the Palace during the Changing of the Guard ceremony may be somewhat bewildering to a spectator. Therefore, I have tried to explain the various steps in the ceremony.

Also, Buckingham Palace is not the only place where you can see the Guards performing their ceremonial duties. There are ceremonies that go on at other nearby locations that are part of the Buckingham Palace ceremony. In addition, you can see the Guards executing other ceremonial duties at other locations in and around London.

Beyondships illustrated article about the Changing of the Guard is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-england-changing-of-the-guard.html

Cruising to Canada - Sydney and St. John

The main street of the restored town at the Fortress of Louisbourg

The 2012 Canada/New England cruising season has come to an end but I wanted to add one more port to profiles of the ports that are often included in the itinerary on Canada/New England cruises. With this addition, Beyondships will have profiles of all the more popular ports visited on such cruises, which I hope will make it more helpful for those of you who may be thinking about such a cruise in 2013 or beyond.

The port is Sydney, Nova Scotia and our profile of the port begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---sydney-nova-scotia.html

Although named after the same 18^th century British aristocrat as the better known city in Australia, the two have little else in common. This one is a small town at the end of a pretty bay. So do not expect to see the harbor bridge or Banzai beach and the opera house looks nothing like the one in the southern hemisphere.

Cruise ships do not stop at this Sydney in order for passengers to view the city. There is a modern and lively cruise pavilion and a few 18^th century buildings but otherwise it is pretty much an ordinary town. Rather, ships come to Sydney because it is the port for Cape Breton Island. People travel from there to the scenic Cabot Trail or to the picturesque area of Baddeck to see the Alexander Graham Bell museum or the Highland Village.

Perhaps the most interesting attraction on Cape Breton Island is the Fortress of Louisbourg. In the first half of the 18^th century this fortified city was the third busiest port in North America. It was destroyed in the wars between Britain and France in the middle of that century. For some 200 years, the site lay undisturbed until the 1960s when the Canadian government decided to rebuild a quarter of the former city. It is the largest historical restoration in North America. In essence, you have what is an 18^th century French town far from any significant modern day urban center.

To bring the town to life, there are re-enactors in 18^th century costumes. They tell you the story of the people who actually live there and demonstrate how life was lived in those days. It is both entertaining and educational.

Beyondships' article about visiting Louisbourg is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---sydney-nova-scotia---louisbourg.html

While we are on the subject of Canada cruises, St. John, New Brunswick has emerged as one of the most visited ports in the Canada/New England area. Its pride is the Reversing Falls (sometimes called the Reversing Rapids), a section of the St. John River that is affected by the tidal changes with dramatic effect.

The Reversing Falls are a short distance out of town but for many years you needed some sort of vehicle to get there. Now St. John has constructed a trail so that you can walk from the cruise terminal to the Reversing Falls. I tried this out my last time in St. John and an article about my experience is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-article---a-walk-to-the-reversing-falls.html

Cruise Destination Split Croatia

Split, Croatia

With the winter cold weather arriving, it is nice to think of someplace sunny and warm. And one of the sunniest places in Europe is the city of Split in Croatia.

Split is an ancient city that only recently has developed into a major cruise destination. It is situated on the coast of the Adriatic and thus is a convenient port of call for ships cruising to or from Venice.

For all intents and purposes the city began when the Roman Emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace there. It was no cottage but rather a large complex of buildings fortified with high walls. After the fall of the Roman Empire, people took shelter in the fortified palace against the various invaders that were plundering nearby cities. Over the years, a city developed within its walls.

The old city is remarkably well-preserved. You can walk through its narrow and twisting lanes and find all sorts of things from ancient temples to medieval palaces to interesting shops.

If you prefer a more leisurely day, Split has a wide promenade fronting the harbor. You can sit at one of the outdoor cafes and admire the palm trees and the mountains across the bay.

Beyondship's profile of Split begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---split-croatia.html. There is also a special feature about exploring Diocletian's Palace. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-split-diocletian-palace.html

Photos of cruise ships Jewel of the Seas and Norwegian Gem

Norwegian Gem

This week we have new photo essays of two ships - - Norwegian Gem and Jewel of the Seas.

As discussed in a previous post, I was on Caribbean Princess during Hurricane Sandy. The ship took shelter in Boston harbor during the storm. Jewel of the Seas was also there through the storm. After she left, Norwegian Gem arrived because the port that she was scheduled to go to, New York, remained closed for a few days after the storm. Once it was announced that New York would re-open, both Caribbean Princess and Norwegian Gem sailed there.

Gem and Jewel have several things in common. Of course, they both have jewelry-inspired names. But more importantly, they were both built by the Meyer Werft shipyard in Germany which is known for its high quality products and attention to detail.

In addition, when I interview ship captains, I often ask how fast can this ship really go? According to this unscientific survey, the two fastest cruise ships currently in service are Jewel of the Seas and Norwegian Gem. (Queen Mary 2 is the fastest passenger ship in service but she is an ocean liner as opposed to a cruise ship). I am thinking of holding a race to determine this question once and for all.

In any event, it was an interesting coincidence to see one right after the other.

The photo essays have shots of the ships both during the day and at night. There are also short video clips. The Norwegian Gem photo essay is at http://www.beyondships2.com/norwegian-gem-photo-essay.html and the Jewel of the Seas essay is at http://www.beyondships2.com/jewel-of-the-seas-photo-essay.html

Talking with the Captain of Brilliance of the Seas; Seaview Cafe Review

Captain Sorensen of Brilliance of the Seas

The objective of Beyondships.com is to give you a feel for the ships. Accordingly, I try to provide information about the ships in a number of ways including photographs, copies of daily programs, menus, items distributed onboard as well as my own writing. Another perspective I like to give you is that of the officers who actually operate the ships. They are the ones who are in charge of delivering the cruise experience to you so I think it is valuable to know what they are aiming to deliver.

As discussed in this blog last week, Brilliance of the Seas is a special ship. Thus, I wanted to get her officers' perspective about what makes her special. Accordingly, I spoke with Captain Henirk Loft Sorensen and Hotel Director Erik Speckenbrink about what makes Brilliance special. They emphasized the international atmosphere on board that gives it a more cosmopolitan feel than most ships. They also used words such as elegant, personal, and high quality. In addition, Captain Sorensen confirmed what I had heard from several other captains, Brilliance is a wonderful ship to drive. My interview with Captain Sorensen and Hotel Director Speckenbrink is at http://www.beyondships2.com/brilliance-of-the-seas-captain-interview.html

Another way of giving you a feel for the ships is through articles about the food on the ship. Dining is an important part of the cruise experience and so I like to do interviews with chefs and restaurant managers and to do restaurant reviews where possible.

Normally, I do not like to do a review of a restaurant that is going to be replaced with another venue in a future refit of the ship. However, I enjoyed the Seaview Cafe on Brilliance so much that I thought I would go ahead and write a review anyway. After all, the Seaview on Brilliance will be in operation for a few more months and the one on Jewel of the Seas should keep going even longer.

In April 2013, Brilliance is scheduled to have a major revitalization. This is part of a program where Royal Caribbean is bringing some of the more popular features that were developed for Oasis of the Seas and Allure of the Seas to the rest of the fleet. The details of what will be done to Brilliance have not been announced but when her sister ship Radiance of the Seas went through a similar revitalization, the Seaview Cafe was replaced with another venue.

The Seaview is a casual venue in an out of the way location on the back of the ship. You can eat outside or in the charming little clubhouse. But what makes this venue so nice is that you have a world of choice in designing your meal. You select the combination of ingredients that you want on your pizza, pasta dish or panini and they make it for you fresh.

My review of the Seaview Cafe with photos is at http://www.beyondships2.com/brilliance-of-the-seas-seaview-cafe.html

Cruise ship Brilliance of the Seas

I was really excited when I saw that Brilliance of the Seas was coming to the Cape Liberty cruise terminal on the New Jersey side of New York harbor to do a cruise. It had been more than five years since Brilliance had last done a cruise from the continental and here she was going to do one from the Port of New York, which could not be more convenient for me.

Why the excitement? Brilliance is one of four Radiance class cruise ships in the Royal Caribbean fleet. If you think you know Royal Caribbean but have not sailed on a Radiance class ship, you are in for a surprise.

The cruise experience on the Radiance class ships is different than on the giant Royal Caribbean ships. Brilliance and her sisters at approximately 90,000 gross tons are big ships but on a relative scale they are much smaller than the Freedom and Voyager classes, not to mention the Oasis class. There is no Royal Promenade, no ice skating rink, no surfing simulator. The facilities are not as Wow-oriented. Rather, they are more subtle, high quality features. These ships could easily fit in the fleet of Royal Caribbean's premium category affiliate Celebrity Cruises.

They are also different than Royal's Vision and Sovereign class ships. Those ships do not have the features of the Voyager class ships because they were built before the Voyagers. The Radiance class ships were built contemporaneously with the Voyager class. Thus, they were intended to provide a different cruise experience than the Voyagers. Moreover, they were designed to provide a different cruise experience than Royal's older ships. For example, although they are bigger than the Sovereign class ships, they hold fewer passengers. This means more space for each passenger.

Do not get me wrong - - I like the cruise experience provided on the other Royal ships. I am constantly recommending Allure of the Seas to people who ask what are my favorite ships. Along the same lines, I had a great cruise on Enchantment of the Seas earlier this fall. Rather, the point is that the cruise experience provided on Brilliance and her sisters is a special version of the Royal Caribbean product. A fine wine that attracts many of the most experienced of Royal's frequent cruisers.

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This week we are adding Brilliance of the Seas to Beyonship's cruise ship profiles. http://beyondships.com/RCI-BOS-Profile.html It is the 99^th cruise ship to be profiled on Beyondships. The profile has daily programs, menus, deck, plans and other information about the ship. In addition, there is a multi-page photo tour and commentary about the ship. http://beyondships.com/RCI-BOS-Tour-1.html

More on Brilliance next week.

Aboard Caribbean Princess in Hurricane Sandy

I hadn't intended to write about this but so many people have asked me about what it was like to be on a cruise ship during Hurricane Sandy, I thought I would put aside what I had planned on writing about this week and instead put together a cruise review of my voyage on Caribbean Princess.

The cruise was scheduled to be a short four day cruise including a day in Bermuda. Having sailed on Caribbean Princess several times before, I knew that she provided a good cruise experience. Bermuda is one of my favorite cruise destinations. Friends were going on the cruise so it looked quite attractive.

I must admit that I experienced some trepidation as reports of a hurricane coming up the Atlantic coast dominated the media in the days before the ship was scheduled to embark from New York. I have been in a hurricane on a passenger ship and it is not the most comfortable place to be. Still, I had faith that Princess would somehow keep us safe and relatively comfortable.

My faith turned out to be justified. Princess did keep us safe. We didn't get to Bermuda but they managed to provide a good onboard experience in rather trying circumstances.

There was some tension aboard. People were worried about friends, families and property at home. Also, with the closure of the Port of New York, there was uncertainty about when and where this cruise would end. Some passengers chose to take their anger out on Princess - - the closest authority figure. I overheard one passenger who, although he said he was not a lawyer, was orating about various legal strategies passengers could pursue. Having practiced law for 20 years, I saw no merit to what he was saying. But he was probably just venting frustration.

When I returned to New York, I found out just how lucky I had been to have been on Caribbean Princess. There was no electricity and no heat for a week after the storm and in the icy cold, I longed to be back on the warm ship. I sustained some property damage but it was nothing compared to the damage and injury that occurred elsewhere in the vicinity. Thus, I felt very thankful that I had been away.

My account of my experiences is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/caribbean-princess-shelter-from-the-storm.html.

On a lighter note, I have also included dining reviews of the afternoon tea http://www.beyondships2.com/caribbean-princess-aternoon-tea.html and the pub lunch on Caribbean Princess. http://www.beyondships2.com/caribbean-princess-pub-lunch.html These are additional dining events designed to enhance the onbaord experience.

I have also added new menus http://www.beyondships2.com/caribbean-princess-menus.html and daily programs http://www.beyondships2.com/caribbean-princess-daily-programs.html to Beyondship's existing profile of Caribbean Princess.

Cruising to Charlottetown and Visiting Anne of Green Gables

 Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island in Canada is becoming an increasingly popular cruise destination. Indeed, during the course of one week last month 12 cruise ships called in Charlottetown.

Why this surge of interest in Charlottetown? Charlottetown is not an international capital nor is it a favoirite playground of the rich and famous. Rather, Charlottetown is an unpretentious little city that does not participate in the hectic pace of modern life. In addition, the rest of Prince Edward Island has a charming countryside consisting of farmland, rivers and woods. Then, along the coast is the natural beauty of red sand beaches, wind-carved dunes, and dramtic red sandstone cliffs.

Charlottetown is also known as the birthplace of Canada. It was here that delegates first gathered to discuss forming the confederation that would become Canada. You can see where it all took place at Province House.

But the charm of Charlottetown lies in its less well-known attractions - - the Victorian architecture, the boardwalk along the sea at Victoria Park, the Confederation Centre Art Museum.

PEI is home to one internationally famous individual - - the fictional Anne of Green Gables. Lucy Maud Montgomery set her much-loved novels about a young orphan girl in her native PEI. An entire industry has sprung up on PEI around Anne but the most popular attraction is the charming farm that was the chief inspiration for Montgomery.

Thus, Charlottetown makes an attractive port of call on Canada/New England cruises and on fall foliage cruises. The home page for our illustrated guide to Charlottetown is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---charlottetown.html

In addition, we have an article and slideshow on visiting the Anne of Green Gables Heritage Place. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-charlottetown-anne-of-green-gables.html

Finally, we have a glimpse of the natural beauty of Prince Edward Island National Park with our short video on the island's red sandstone cliffs. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-charlottetown-sandstone-cliffs.html

Cruising to Newport, Rhode Island

Newport, Rhode Island has a multi-faceted appeal and thus is one of my favorite cruise destinations.

Of course, Newport is known for its Gilded Age mansions. Built during the later half of the 19^th century and the early 20^th century by people with vast fortunes, these buildings are extraordinary. Their owners commissioned the best architects of the day and so they are interesting from an architectural standpoint. They also crammed them with fine art and furnishings and so they are interesting from an artistic standpoint as well. Then the fact that they were used only for a few weeks each summer and were known as “cottages” hints at the opulence of the strange society that inhabited them. Thus, the are interesting sociologically as well.

Then there is a large section of town that is made up of colonial and early American buildings. There are so many in fact that the whole district is a National Historical Landmark. Here again, you have architecture and history but much different than the mansions.

Newport is also famous for its yachting and sailing. Indeed, all the masts of the sailboats anchored in the harbor make it look like some strange forest that has lost its foliage. You have the heritage of a half century of hosting the America's Cup races but you also have the relaxed summer atmosphere of its seaside restaurants and shops.

There is also the military connection. Newport is the home of the Naval War College. It also has Fort Adams, the largest coastal fortification in the United States.

Although Newport is called a city, it really has the feel of a large town. You can walk just about anyplace - - tree-lined streets, parks, along the cliffs that border the sea on one side and the mansions on the other.

Thus, Newport is not the kind of port where you can say “I've seen it all” with just one visit. It has the ingredients to sustain multiple visits.

Beyondship's illustrated guide to Newport, Rhode Island begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---newport.html

Talking with the Captain, Hotel Manager and Entertainment Director on Queen Mary 2

During the last couple of years, Cunard Line, and its flagship Queen Mary 2 in particular, have seen the retirement of a substantial number of senior officers including Commodore Bernard Warner, Captain Paul Wright, Captain Nick Bates and Hotel Manager John Duffy. It is also my understanding that Entertainment Director Ray Rouse is now semi-retired. Those familiar with the Cunard world know that these people played a significant part in bringing the Queen Mary 2 into service and shaping the on board experience.

Now they have been succeeded by a new generation of leaders. Some of them have only been with Cunard a relatively short time. However, it is now their responsibility to take Queen Mary 2 into the future.

This is a more difficult task than taking over the leadership of any other major passenger ship. Queen Mary 2 was built as a transatlantic liner and although she does other types of voyages, her mainstay is the crossing between New York and Southampton, England. Whereas at one time hundreds of ships were making this journey on a regular basis, only one ship makes regularly scheduled transatlantic crossings today. The question that constantly haunts Cunard is whether there is enough of a market for such voyages to even sustain one ship.

The direct crossings on Queen Mary 2 are different than the transatlantic re-positioning cruises that cruise ships moving from the Caribbean to Europe or vice versa do during the Spring and Fall. On a direct crossing, there are no port days. Thus, the focus of the voyage is on what happens onboard, not on the ports. In addition, it is a shorter voyage than the re-positionings even though with the high cost of fuel, Cunard has lengthened its crossings in recent years to reduce fuel consumption.

Queen Mary 2 was designed with such differences in mind. The ship is geared for sea days, with facilities and programming to occupy your time fully. Furthermore, the ship was designed to withstand whatever weather she may encounter on the Atlantic and still proceed at speed and in comfort.

There is a core of people who love the traditional crossings and their elegance. Consequently, Cunard has a very high number of repeat passengers. However, in order to sustain the ship, it must also attract other vacationers and holiday-makers.

Thus, Cunard must balance preserving tradition with providing the type of onboard experience that contemporary travelers seek in an ocean voyage. Queen Mary 2's predecessor, Queen Elizabeth 2 (QE2) managed to tread this tightrope for nearly 40 years. As one who traveled on QE2 many times, I can attest that she constantly evolved throughout her career.

I recently met with some of the new generation of Queen Mary 2's senior officers and asked them about their vision for taking the ship forward. As noted earlier, even though some have only been with the line for a relatively short amount of time, I was struck by their commitment to preserving the Cunard heritage, which goes back some 170 years. At the same time, they recognized the need to move forward. But changes will be done in a keeping with the Cunard style, not by merely copying whatever becomes popular on other ships.

Beyondships interview with Captain Kevin Oprey is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-captain-oprey-interview.html

Our interview with Hotel Manager Robert Howie is at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-howie-interview.html

And our talk with Entertainment Director Keith Maynard is at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-maynard-interview.html

We have also updated our Queen Mary 2 section with new daily programs and with new photos so that the photo tour of the ship reflects the changes that were made in the 2011 refit. http://beyondships.com/QM2.html

Queen Mary 2 videos

 I was recently on a cruise during which Queen Mary 2 was with us in three of the ports as well as when we embarked from New York. It was interesting to watch the reaction of the passengers on the ship that I was on each time they saw QM2. People would stop and make some comment like: “Is that the Queen Mary?” And then they would pause for awhile just to watch. It was a recognition that this was something special that you could tell your friends and family about - - “I saw the Queen Mary 2.”

Cunard's QM2 is an imposing sight. At 150,000 gross tons, she is much larger than the majority of today's cruise ships. Also her sleek streamlined silhouette has a traditional grace and beauty.

But the thing that stops people in their tracks is the fact that Queen Mary 2 is heir to a tradition that goes back some 170 years. She is the only true ocean liner providing regularly scheduled transatlantic service. As such, she follows in a tradition of such legendary ships as the original Queen Mary, the Normandie, the France, the United States and most recently, the Queen Elizabeth 2 (QE2).

These ships became legendary not just because of their technology but as the epitome of luxury. They captured the public's imagination with images of movie stars, royalty and the rich and famous mingling in beautiful surroundings.

Queen Mary 2 brings that image into the modern era. Leaving QE2 aside, the luxury on the historic ships was pretty much limited to first class. On Queen Mary 2, everyone can participate. (One of the myths that has arisen about QM2 is that she is a two-class ship. She is not. There are separate dining rooms for passengers traveling in the suites but other than that every passenger pretty much can go anywhere any other passenger can go. There is actually more separation of passengers on some of today's cruise ships than there is on QM2).

This ship is also technologically unique. In order to be able to handle any weather that might confront her during an Atlantic crossing, the ship was built to be strong and powerful. Although she is rarely called upon to do so, she can reach speeds of up to 30 knots. In addition, I have been on her in tremendous storms during which the dining rooms were nonetheless full of passengers. That is a testament to her stability.

Another thing that makes QM2 interesting is that she does varied itineraries. Her mainstay, of course, is the transatlantic crossing between New York and Southampton but she also turns up in the Norwegian fjords, in the Caribbean, circling the British Isles, in Germany, Australia, and on the Canada & New England run. When she does appear, the reaction is always the same: people stop and stare. Indeed, there have been instances in Hamburg and in Australia where they came in the thousands just to have a look.

I've put together several new videos on Queen Mary 2. The first is an introductory piece with video of the ship sailing and a slideshow of the ship's public areas – theaters, restaurants, bars and lounges etc. It is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-video-review.html

The other two videos will primarily be of interest to QM2 fans. One shows the ship sailing into Halifax, Nova Scotia and maneuvering into her berth. It is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-arrives-video.html

The third video is the flip side of the second one. Filmed some eight hours after the arrival shown above, this video shows QM2 leaving her berth and going out to sea. In it, you can hear Queen Mary 2's fabulous deep fog horns. The video is at http://www.beyondships2.com/queen-mary-2-departs-video.html

Cruise destination Portland Maine; Lighthouses Photos and Video

With the coming of fall, many cruisers are taking or thinking of a cruise to Canada and New England. The leaves are starting to turn color in that region and there is something refreshing about being out in the crisp air in a place of such scenic beauty. Accordingly, cruise ships gather each fall in the embarkation ports of the northeastern United States for their annual fall foliage cruises.

It should be noted at the outset that it is very difficult to time it so that your cruise matches the height of the fall colors. The time when the leaves are at their height varies each year as a result of temperature, rainfall amounts and other conditions. But while the changing leaves can be indeed breathtaking, the good news is that the scenic beauty of this region goes beyond the leaves. In fact, in my opinion, the cruises earlier in the season are usually nicer because the weather is usually warmer and so it is more pleasant to be outside viewing the scenery.

The state of Maine is in the heart of this region. Relatively undeveloped, it is known for its forests which come down to its rocky coastline, its lighthouses and, of course, for its lobster.

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Most cruise ships call at either Bar Harbor or at Portland. Some call in both ports because they are quite different experiences. Bar Harbor is a small town on an offshore island that is dominated by the Acadia National Park. It was once a summer playground of wealthy Americans but now its unspoiled charm is accessible to all. Beyondships' photo guide to Bar Harbor begins at http://www.beyondships.com/Ports-Bar-Harbor.html

Portland is Maine's largest city and has been a major port since Colonial days. However, during the second half of the 20^th century, many of its traditional businesses declined to moved elsewhere. As a result, Portland had to re-invent itself - - something that it has had to do several times in the past due to war and natural catastrophes. The city which has emerged is quite tourist friendly with restaurants, art galleries and interesting shops as well as places of historical interest. Beyondship's new photo guide to Portland begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---portland.html

As mentioned earlier, one of the things that Maine is known for is its lighthouses. These lonely sentinels standing at the edge of the sea have a unique romantic appeal. Consequently, many travelers to Bar Harbor and to Portland choose to visit some of the area's lighthouses. I've put together a photo essay showing some of the lighthouses that can be visited in both ports. http://www.beyondships2.com/lighthouses-in-maine.html

One lighthouse that just about everyone has seen is Portland Head Light. Standing on a bluff overlooking the entrance to Casco Bay, Portland Head Light has been the subject of numerous paintings and photographs. It is the classic image of a lighthouse. However, while the image is well-known, one thing that struck me about visiting Portland Head Light in person was how much the image was enhanced by the sight and the sound of the sea crashing against the rocks below the lighthouse. Therefore, I have put together a short video in which you can hear and see the power of the waves. It is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/video-the-portland-head-light.html

Holyroodhouse Palace and Stirling Castle are both in Scotland. They both have historic importance and have been royal residences for centuries. However, the two present quite different visitor experiences.

To begin with, Holyroodhouse is located in Edinburgh whereas Stirling Castle is in the countryside not all that far from Glasgow. Thus, a visit to Holyroodhouse is an urban experience, something that you can do as part of a day in that rather unique city. Stirling Castle requires a drive through some pretty countryside from where the cruise ships dock in Greenock. Although there are other things to see nearby, the castle is the focus of the journey.

Stirling Castle sits majestically on top of a stone crag. Perched on essentially vertical stone cliffs dominates its surroundings. Holyroodhouse lies in a valley. Overlooking it is the enormous rocky crag Arthur's Seat, part of an extinct volcano.

Architecturally, most of the buildings at Stirling date from the Renaissance. The palace building that we see today at Holyroodhouse reflects the Baroque style of the time of Charles II, although there are sections which are much older.

Both palaces were important in the life of Mary Queen of Scots. She was crowned at Stirling and spent her early life there before she went to France to marry the heir to the French throne. She came to Holyroodhouse as a widow and some of the most important events of the later part of her turbulent reign occurred there including her two subsequent marriages as well as the murder of her private secretary, which was carried out in her presence.

After King James VI became King James I of England as well, royal interest in both palaces declined precipitously. Eventually, Queen Victoria revived Holyroodhouse as a royal residence. Stirling Castle was allowed to become first a prison and then a military base.

This history has an impact on what you see at the two palaces. Holyroodhouse, as the official residence of the monarch in Scotland, contains items of art and furniture from the Queen's collection, many of which have been at Holyroodhouse for centuries. At Stirling, most of its royal contents were dispersed after the royals moved elsewhere. However, as a result of a 12 million pound restoration project, the Royal Palace has been returned to its Renaissance look with high quality replicas of the art and furniture.

As a functioning royal residence, Holyroodhouse is not just a museum. People live there and it is used for other things. Consequently, like Windsor Castle in England, it has the feel of a living enterprise. Stirling Castle is essentially a museum. However, to bring it to life, the Royal Palace has guides who while dressed in period costume and assuming the identity of members of the court of James IV tell the story of the Palace. It is not only educational but entertaining.

Beyondships' article with photographs on visiting Holyroodhouse Palace is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-scotland-holyroodhouse.html Our illustrated article on visiting Stirling Castle is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---scotland---stirling-castle.html

Cruise destination Venice, Italy

Venice is one of the world's great cruise ports. To begin, sailing into Venice ranks with sailing into New York City as a spectacular experience. You sail past world famous landmarks which one would think it impossible for a big ship to come so close to. In addition, you see small backwater canals with ancient buildings that seem to embody romance.

The city has purpose-built cruise terminals. In fact, many cruises begin and end in Venice. That means that when your ship docks, you are not stuck in a container ship area that is designed for moving freight rather than people.

While the cruise terminals are a nice convenience, what makes Venice a great cruise port is that Venice is a legendary city. Perched on a series of islands, the automobile plays little part in the life of the city center. Nor are there tall glass box skyscrapers or flashy electric signs. It is a city unlike any other.

On top of that, Venice is a cultural feast. You can walk down a backstreet and find a forgotten Renaissance church or building that would be the pride of many other cities. Museums and public buildings hold works of art by some of the many masters that have lived and worked in Venice. There is history everywhere. But more importantly, there is the overall ambiance of romance that has inspired artists, authors and composers.

If one needs a break from this rich diet, there are the fine sand beaches of the Lido – a name now inextricably associated with resort living.

Venice has many moods. On a sunny summer's day, the great landmarks can be teaming with tourists. At the same time, the backstreets and side canals can be almost deserted. Venice in the rain is more mellow. Similarly, as the sun sets and the majority of the visitors leave, a timeless enchantment takes over.

We have posted an extensive section on Venice. There is a Venice home page with an overview and a brief history. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice.html There are articles about visiting St. Mark's and the Doge's Palace http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice---st-marks.html as well as on experiencing a gondola, that most Venetian of vessels. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice---gondola.html We have a page about the cruise terminal http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice---cruise-terminal.html and a page with some links for further information about Venice. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice---links.html Accompanying all of these are photos and there is a slideshow devoted to showing some of the sights one may encounter walking around Venice. http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---venice---slideshow.html

Talking with the Captain of Enchantment; Chops Grille Review

This week, some of the members of the senior management team talk about what makes Enhantment of the Seas work.

First, we have Captain Gus Andersson, the master of the vessel. Captain Gus clearly enjoys his role. He can be seen out and about in the passenger areas of the ship, walking about and keeping his eye on how things are going and also participating in light-hearted activities such as a cake making competition. His announcements from the bridge inform the guests of the usual nautical information such as the ship's position and the weather but also about places of interest the ship is passing and some relevant history. The announcements always end with “words of wisdom” - - little sayings that elecit a smile but also have a lesson embedded in them.

Enchantment is Captain Gus' first permanent command. However, his resume includes expereience as an officer on several Royal Caribbean ships. Especially noteworthy is that he was First Officer on the team that brought Allure of the Seas into service. I sailed on Allure's maiden voyage and was struck by how incredibly motivated the crew of that ship was.

Micael Landry is the Hotel Director on Enchantment. One of the few American hotel directors in the cruise industry, his experience in hospitality includes both land-based hotels and ships. On Enchantment, he is in charge of the ship's largest department including such things as the dining, the entertainment and the accommodation. Like Captain Gus, he is not one to hide in his office. Rather, he too gets out and about amongst the guests and passengers. His forays are low key and designed to ensure that the operation is running smoothly.

Snezana Katic is the Guest Relations Manager. Included in her area of responsibily is management of the Guest Relations Desk. Equivalent to the reception desk at a hotel, the Guest Relations Desk is where passengers go when they have a question or a problem. On too many ships, the attitude of the people manning the desk is quite defensive. They seem to regard questions and reports of problems as a personal criticism. This, of course, is not very helpful.

On Enchantment, the Guest Relations Desk is just the opposite. The people behind the desk are friendly and endeavor to be problem solvers.

Enchantment is now 15 years old, which makes her approaching middle age. Yet, she still provides a good vacation experience and has a legion of followers who sail on her regularly. I asked these members of the senior team why that is. Their answer is posted at: http://www.beyondships2.com/enchantment-of-the-seas-interview.html

In addition, this week we have my review of the Chops Grille on Enchantment. Chops is Royal Caribbean's urban-style steakhouse. The menu of this specialty restaurant is the same on each of the Royal Caribbean ships that has a Chops. However, just as the same brand of restaurant can differ in different cities, so do the Chops. The review is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/enchantment-of-the-seas-chops-grille-review.html

Enchantment of the Seas Photos and Review

Two weeks ago, I returned from a cruise on Royal Caribbean's Enchantment of the Seas. Enchantment is not the newest ship in the Royal Caribbean fleet - - she entered service in 1997 and was extensively refurbished in 2005. She is also not the largest ship in the fleet although she is significantly bigger than RCI's other Vision class ships - - the result of the insertion of a 73 foot section into her midsection during the 2005 refit. Still, she is nonetheless capable of providing a very nice cruise experience.

In some ways, the cruise experience reminded me of how cruising used to be before the turn of the Millennium. Although some very good things have happened to cruising since then, some things have also gotten lost along the way. Take Enchantment's theater for example. In the 90s, the primary entertainment venues on ships were changing from show lounges to theaters. On Enchantment, the theater still has traces of its show lounge antecedents with large padded chairs and comfortable arm rests. They are like living room lounge chairs. In addition, the room has a bright, roomy atmosphere.

The activities onboard are traditional cruise ship activities. There are the captain's reception and past passenger receptions, trivia contests, cooking demonstrations, enrichment lectures, bingo, etc. You also have Royal Caribbean staples like the Quest game and the Love and Marriage game. Although the newer ships have the same or similar activities, the scale of Enchantment makes these events somehow more intimate.

The entertainment could also be described as traditional. Like the cruise directors of old, Cruise Director John Blair seemed to be everywhere and not only took on the role of emcee but also performed a concert of Neil Diamond songs and gave an enrichment lecture. We had two production shows by the Royal Caribbean Singers and Dancers during this eight night cruise. Three of the singers also did a cabaret concert and displayed impressive strong voices. During the course of the voyage, we had two stand-up comedians and a comedy juggler. I enjoyed Carl Banks' performance the most. It was an adult show but did it relied on clever material rather than four letter words for the humor

I like to watch big screen movies. Enchantment does not have a big movie screen. But using a large gauzy backdrop that was designed for the stage shows, the staff has improvised a big screen in the theater that works quite well. On it, they showed a series of recent releases each afternoon and on various evening after the stage show. I thought this was very clever and showed initiative.

Food is always a big part of cruising. Enchantment's main dining room, the My Fair Lady Restaurant, is quite charming with a décor themed after the musical of that name. Service at dinner was very good as was the food. Breakfast and lunch (sea days only) was good but the service and food was not as consistently good as dinner.

The buffet restaurant, the Windjammer, is located at the forward end of the superstructure. This initially confused some of the guests who, familiar with the larger Royal Caribbean ships, headed towards the back of the ship. The room offers great views but was always too crowded for me. I found a better alternative to be the light meal venue in the Solarium, which offers pizza, burgers, sandwiches, salads and desserts. Another nice room underneath the retractable glass roof that covers this pool area.

A dining venue that I found myself going to several times was Cafe Latte-Tudes. This is a specialty coffee bar that also sells Ben and Jerry's ice cream. I am not a coffee drinker and while I did indulge one afternoon in some ice cream, what drew me here again and again was the pastries. The muffins and cookies were excellent and better than anywhere else on the ship.

At this time, Enchantment has one specialty restaurant - - the Chops Grille. This is a steakhouse with a sophisticated urban atmosphere. The food is good quality and it provides a change of atmosphere from the main dining room on a longer cruise.

I booked this cruise late on a guarantee basis. As a result, I was assigned an inside cabin on one of the lower decks. It was clean and surprisingly large with with a surprising amount of storage space. The safe and television were older models but worked well. There was an initial problem with the telephone set but that was remedied before the ship sailed.

Enchantment sailed from Baltimore, Maryland. The rationale for basing a ship in Baltimore is to attract people who live in the surrounding area. However, I was impressed in talking to my fellow passengers at how many were not from the Maryland or mid-Atlantic region. There were quite a few from the mid-west and many from Canada. A large percentage of the passengers were repeat passengers. Thus, it was something more than the convenience of proximity that drew people to this cruise.

The itinerary was an interesting one. First, the ship sailed to Bermuda, where she spent two days. Then after a sea day she was in Boston and then in Newport, Rhode Island. This allowed passengers to have the island experience of Bermuda, the history and sophistication of Boston and the unique resort atmosphere of Newport. Thus, it was not a single vacation experience but a combination of experiences.

The weather throughout the cruise was good. We experienced a rain storm one night but the seas were calm. As a result, there was no real test of Enchantment's seakeeping abilities. She ran smoothly throughout.

I have re-done Beyondships' profile of Enchantment, adding copies of daily programs, information leaflets distributed onboard, and menus. http://beyondships.com/ENOS-Profile.html In addition, the photo tour of the ship has been updated and expanded. http://beyondships.com/ENOS-tour.html Finally, there is a new photo essay showing Enchantment in each of the ports of call she visited during this cruise. http://beyondships.com/RCI-ENOS-Bermuda.html

Serenade of the Seas Photos; Bermuda Travel Guide Update and Bermuda Beach Tennis

Three topics this week, two of which are related.

First, we present a new photo essay on Serenade of the Seas. Serenade is one of Royal Caribbean's Radiance class ships. These ships are known for their maneuverability and their speed. In fact, Royal Caribbean's Captain Herman Zini called them “the Maseratis” of the RCI fleet.

When I first went aboard Serenade a few years ago, I saw that there is much to like about this ship besides its mechanical qualities. The layout and the décor were well-thought out and eye-pleasing. In addition, although she is somewhat bigger than RCI's Vision class ships, she carries a similar number of passengers so there is more space per passenger.

Overall, Serenade reminded me of the Celebrity ships. This should not be surprising considering that she was made by the Meyer Werft shipyard, which built Celebrity's Century class and which is building the Solstice class.

Serenade spends time on both sides of the Atlantic and in this new photo essay, we see her in Venice, Italy and in St. Thomas, USVI. She has nice lines and so is a pleasure to photograph. The photo essay is posted at http://beyondships.com/RCI-SOS-photos.html

Next, we return to one of my favorite cruise destinations - - Bermuda. This island, actually a series of small islands, is unique in several respects. With regard to location, it is not in the Caribbean or in the Bahamas but rather off by herself in the Atlantic, a day's slow sailing from the U.S. east coast ports. As a result, the weather is more moderate than other islands.

While the island is very tourist friendly, it also derives income from the financial services companies located in Hamilton, the island's only urban area. Consequently, you do not see the severe poverty that one sometimes encounters in tropical paradises.

These factors combined with beautiful scenery and a culture that is a unique mix of its British and African heritages have attracted visitors since the earliest days of cruising.

Our photo tour of Bermuda has been updated and expanded with new photos and information. It is at http://beyondships.com/Ports-Bermuda-1.html

An activity that is growing in popularity in Bermuda is beach tennis. In fact, Bermuda just had its fifth annual beach tennis tournament, in which professional players from a number of countries competed for cash purses. I had had the opportunity to attend the tournament and talk to one of its organizers about beach tennis in Bermuda. That article is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination---beach-tennis-in-bermuda.html

Adventure of the Seas Photos; The New Forest and Exbury Gardens

The first item this week is a new photo essay on Adventure of the Seas. Adventure is one of Royal Caribbean's Voyager class ships. The Voyagers are large ships (approximately 135,000 gross tons) and there is plenty to see and do on board. For example, they were the first ships to have the Royal Promenade – the street or indoor mall running down the center of the ship's interior. They also have ice skating rinks, on which they put on ice shows that are essentially musical spectaculars. The main dining rooms are also spectacular rising through multiple decks to a grand chandelier.

Adventure is the third ship in this class. For some reason, she always seems to be in St. Maarten when I am there. As a result, I have accumulated quite a few photos of her in that port. This photo essay presents some of them and serves to augment our existing Adventure of the Seas section. The new essay is at http://beyondships.com/RCI-AOS-Photos.html

For most of her life, Adventure has been sailing the Caribbean. However, next summer she is scheduled to be based out of Southampton, England. In honor of that, this week we are also presenting a cruise destination photo essay on the New Forest, which is just west of Southampton in England.

Although the New Forest is called “New” it is actually a rather ancient place. There have been settlements there since before recorded history. Even after King William I declared it a royal hunting preserve in 1079, people continued to live there. As a result, the New Forest is steeped in history and tradition. Thatched roof houses, small villages, stone churches and ponies who roam at will, all are part of its charm.

It is a national park but it is not a wilderness. Rather, the authorities act to preserve this unique blend of countryside, forest, heath, pubs and villages.

Our section on visiting the New Forest begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-england-new-forest.html

One of the most popular attractions of the New Forest is Exbury Gardens. It was the dream of one of the members of the English branch of the Rothschild banking family and there is still a connection between the Gardens and the family. It is a woodland garden with flowering plants, rare species, and lots and lots of rhododendron. There is also a rather fun narrow gauge steam railway.

On a recent cruise, I took a shore excursion to Exbury. I have written down my experiences and posted them along with some photos at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-destination-england-exbury-gardens.html

Queen Mary 2 Video and Queen Victoria Dining

This week we present our first video on Beyondships.  It is a short item showing P&O Cruises’ Oceana leaving Southampton.  However, what makes it exciting is that it includes an exchange of salutes between Oceana and Queen Mary 2.

I was standing on the forward observation deck of Queen Mary 2, trying out the video feature on a small Nikon that I had just purchased.  We were getting ready to sail on what had turned out to be a sunny and pleasant afternoon in Southampton when Oceana approached on her way out to sea.  I trained the camera on her and as Oceana approached the pier where QM2 was berthed, QM2 sounded her horns in salute.  These horns have a distinctive sound as one is from the original Queen Mary while the other is a copy of the Queen Mary’s original horn (actually, it is the better sounding one).  In any event, the sounds of the horns as well as Oceana’s answering salutes are captured on the video.

The video is posted at http://www.beyondships2.com/video-qm2-salutes-oceana.html

In addition to the video, this week we have added two culinary articles on QM2’s fleetmate, Cunard’s Queen Victoria.  In the first article, Food and Beverage Manager Bernhard Fischer gives us his insights into the various dining venues on Queen Victoria from the luxury Grill restaurants to the new alternative dining options in the Lido.  It is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cunard-queen-victoria-dining-guide.html

The second article is a review of the specialty restaurant on Queen Victoria, the Todd English Restaurant.   Although similar in its menu offerings to the Todd English on Queen Mary 2, the Victoria’s version has an ambiance of its own. http://www.beyondships2.com/cunard-queen-victoria-todd-english-review.html

Going Ashore in St. Petersburg Russia

             On a Baltic cruise, one of the most keenly anticipated ports of call is St. Petersburg, Russia.  Indeed, because the port is so popular with passengers, most ships stay overnight thus giving passengers two days and a night to see the city.

            The reason that St. Petersburg is so popular is that it is so rich in history, art and culture.  Founded by Peter the Great, this city was the physical embodiment of Peter’s ambition to take Russia from being an insular, medieval society into a modern Western European power.  As a result, the city center is full of grand public buildings, palaces and canals that make it beautiful to behold, especially in summer.

            These same buildings were also the setting for the more turbulent side of Russia’s history.  It was here that the key events in the Russian Revolution took place.  Also, the city suffered the most lethal siege in world history during World War II.

            St. Petersburg has become more welcoming to cruise ship passengers in the last few years with the opening of a multi-million dollar cruise ship terminal complex.  However, unlike other Baltic ports outside of Russia, passengers need a visa if they want to explore independently.  This leads most passengers to take shore excursions because, subject to certain condition, foreign cruise passengers do not need a visa if they are on a tour with a recognized travel company.  Such tours can be organized through the ship or directly with the travel company.

            Most shore excursions fall into either of two broad categories: tours of the city center and tours going to the palaces located in the suburbs surrounding St. Petersburg.  If the ship is staying overnight, there are often evening tours to cultural events such as the ballet or folk dancing.

            The most popular destination in the center city is the State Hermitage Museum.  It is housed in a complex of buildings but its heart is the Winter Palace.  The palace is an impressive building in itself - - it was the winter residence of the czars and they spent lavishly on their home.  In addition, according to Soviet historians, it was also the scene for some of the most dramatic events in the Russian Revolution. 

While its architecture and history are reasons enough in themselves to visit the Hermitage, the most compelling reason is the art collection.  Begun by Catherine the Great, there are few collections in the world - - perhaps the Louvre, the Metropolitan, and the Vatican – that are on a par with the Hermitage in terms of breadth and quality.

Of the tours to the suburban palaces, my pick was the Peterhof Palace.  This palace was begun by Peter the Great as a summer residence and his hand can still be seen in the numerous fountains and small palaces on the grounds.  However, the opulent Grand Palace was created for his daughter the Empress Elizabeth.  As Peter intended, Peterhof impresses the visitor with one magnificent sight after another.

Beyondships’ guide to St. Petersburg is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-st-petersburg-russia.html  Our feature article on the Peterhof begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-st-petersburg-russia-peterhof.html