Going Ashore in St. Petersburg Russia

             On a Baltic cruise, one of the most keenly anticipated ports of call is St. Petersburg, Russia.  Indeed, because the port is so popular with passengers, most ships stay overnight thus giving passengers two days and a night to see the city.

            The reason that St. Petersburg is so popular is that it is so rich in history, art and culture.  Founded by Peter the Great, this city was the physical embodiment of Peter’s ambition to take Russia from being an insular, medieval society into a modern Western European power.  As a result, the city center is full of grand public buildings, palaces and canals that make it beautiful to behold, especially in summer.

            These same buildings were also the setting for the more turbulent side of Russia’s history.  It was here that the key events in the Russian Revolution took place.  Also, the city suffered the most lethal siege in world history during World War II.

            St. Petersburg has become more welcoming to cruise ship passengers in the last few years with the opening of a multi-million dollar cruise ship terminal complex.  However, unlike other Baltic ports outside of Russia, passengers need a visa if they want to explore independently.  This leads most passengers to take shore excursions because, subject to certain condition, foreign cruise passengers do not need a visa if they are on a tour with a recognized travel company.  Such tours can be organized through the ship or directly with the travel company.

            Most shore excursions fall into either of two broad categories: tours of the city center and tours going to the palaces located in the suburbs surrounding St. Petersburg.  If the ship is staying overnight, there are often evening tours to cultural events such as the ballet or folk dancing.

            The most popular destination in the center city is the State Hermitage Museum.  It is housed in a complex of buildings but its heart is the Winter Palace.  The palace is an impressive building in itself - - it was the winter residence of the czars and they spent lavishly on their home.  In addition, according to Soviet historians, it was also the scene for some of the most dramatic events in the Russian Revolution. 

While its architecture and history are reasons enough in themselves to visit the Hermitage, the most compelling reason is the art collection.  Begun by Catherine the Great, there are few collections in the world - - perhaps the Louvre, the Metropolitan, and the Vatican – that are on a par with the Hermitage in terms of breadth and quality.

Of the tours to the suburban palaces, my pick was the Peterhof Palace.  This palace was begun by Peter the Great as a summer residence and his hand can still be seen in the numerous fountains and small palaces on the grounds.  However, the opulent Grand Palace was created for his daughter the Empress Elizabeth.  As Peter intended, Peterhof impresses the visitor with one magnificent sight after another.

Beyondships’ guide to St. Petersburg is at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-st-petersburg-russia.html  Our feature article on the Peterhof begins at http://www.beyondships2.com/cruise-port-st-petersburg-russia-peterhof.html

Monarch of the Seas - - Profile and Photo Tour

Monarch of the Seas still attracts a wide variety of cruisers. When she entered service in 1991, Monarch was the world’s largest and most innovative cruise ship. Today, she is far from the largest. Her older sister, Sovereign of the Seas, has been transferred to Royal Caribbean’s Spanish affiliate Pullmantur. However, Monarch has found a market niche that keeps her viable in the American market.




That niche is small get-away cruises from Port Canaveral, Florida to the Bahamas. Monarch does three and four day cruises that call at Nassau and at Royal Caribbean’s private island Coco Cay.



Port Canaveral is not far from Orlando and families vacationing at the theme parks in the Orlando area often want to add a short cruise to their vacation. Because the cruises on Monarch are shorter and less expensive than the cruises done by such first tier ships as Freedom of the Seas, Disney Dream and Carnival Dream that also sail from Port Canaveral, Monarch is able to attract some of the theme park vacationers.



The price and the short length of the cruises also make Monarch attractive to young people looking to try cruising for the first time.



They also make Monarch attractive to veteran Royal Caribbean cruisers who live in Florida. Without much planning, travel or expense,, they can hop onboard for a few days in familiar surroundings.



Although much has been spent to refurbish and maintain the ship over the years, one cannot expect all of the features of the new Royal Caribbean ships. Still, the core features of the Royal Caribbean product are there. One will find that many of the bars and lounges are signature Royal Caribbean venues. Similarly, the ship offers many of the activities that are popular with Royal Caribbean cruisers. Furthermore, while Monarch is not as big as Oasis of the Seas, she is still a big ship with big ship facilities.



Beyondships’ profile of Monarch of the Seas is at http://www.beyondships.com/RCI-MONS-Profile.html and the multi-page photo tour and commentary is at http://www.beyondships.com/RCI-MONS--Tour-1.html

Touring Carnival Legend

Carnival Legend is a Kaverner-built Vista class cruise ship. In other words, she has essentially the same hull design as the more recent Vistas that have been built for Holland America, Costa and P&O by Fincantieri in Italy. This has been a very successful design which gives the ships better speed and seakeeping abilities than many cruise ships.

In the Carnival Cruise Lines fleet, the four Vista class ships are better known as Spirit class ships after the first ship in this series Carnival Spirit. They are smaller in size than the Destiny/Conquest/Splendor class but at over 80,000 gross tons are still quite formidable ships. They are the fastest ships in the Carnival Cruise Lines fleet and have a certain distinct elegance.

Like all Carnival ships, the interior of Carnival Legend has a theme. Appropriately enough, the theme on Legend is legends. As a result, guest find themselves surrounded by ancient Greek myths and medieval sagas. Still other public rooms are dedicated to jazz legends or are inspired by famous athletes. At the same time, there are luxurious facilities such as the spa and the fitness center and the spectacular supper club. It is a fascinating escape from the every day world.

My profile of Carnival Legend is posted at: http://www.beyondships.com/CarnivalLegend-Profile.html and my photo tour and commentary begins at http://www.beyondships.com/CarnivalLegend-Tour-1.html

Norwegian Jewel Cruise Ship Profile

Norwegian Jewel is one of the most recent class of Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) ships and one of the largest. Since she was the first one of this class, she does not have quite all of the features that are on the most recent ship, Norwegian Gem, but she is pretty much state-of-the-art Freestyle cruising.

Freestyle cruising is all about giving the guests options to design their own vacation. There are two large dining rooms, seven specialty restaurants, a buffet and several places for a light snack. There are bars, nightclubs, a large casino and a theater for production shows. Similarly, there are pools, a spa, a fitness center and various other sports facilities for daytime entertainment. The accommodations range from lavish luxury to comfortable but utilitarian. The idea is that you decide what is best for you.

Of course, with freedom comes responsibility. For example, the guest must make his or her own dinner arrangements. If they fail to do so, they may end up dining in a venue that they did not really want while the production show that they did want to see in the theater is taking place.

Jewel is somewhat similar in décor to the slightly smaller Norwegian Dawn. Both make use of bold colors but not overwhelmingly so. For the most part, the style is upscale contemporary. I was somewhat disappointed that Jewel does not have the amazing art collection that is on Dawn, but then one can’t really expect NCL to have Monets and Reniors on every ship. There are some very good Asian paintings, however, if one keeps an eye out.

Outside, Jewel is painted white with a festive mural on her bow and sides. It is not like a traditional ocean liner but then NCL is all about breaking with tradition. Jewel is a big happy-looking ship.

It should be noted that this ship is no slouch technologically. She is capable of 25 knots, making her one of the fastest passenger ships in service. Also, with her two azipods and three bow thrusters, she is highly maneuverable.

This ship is based out of Britain during the summer months, doing cruises to Northern Europe. Although the style is distinctly American, she has developed a substantial European following. Freedom of choice has an appeal that transcends national boundaries.

My profile of Norwegian Jewel with information, copies of menus and daily programs, is at http://beyondships.com/NCLJewel.html and the photographic tour and commentary begins at http://beyondships.com/NCLJewel-Tour.html

The food and beverage manager on any passenger ship has a great responsibility. After all, eating in the ship's restaurants and drinking in the bars are important parts of the cruise experience. Consequently, the food must be good and plentiful and quality service has to be maintained. In addition, the restaurants and bars have to reflect the style of cruising that the cruise line has marketed to the public.

All of this involves a massive behind-the-scenes operation. The food, beverages and other supplies have to be ordered, brought onboard, stored and used. The staff must be trained and motivated. There must be opportunities for advancement, good living conditions and entertainment for the crew in order to have good morale and thus good service.

Bernhard Fischer is the Food and Beverage Manager on Queen Mary 2. QM2 is one of the largest ships in the world and with a schedule that involves numerous sea days, there are logistical considerations that other ships do not encounter. Moreover, when I interviewed him recently, he pointed out that the history and tradition of Cunard Line required a different way of doing things that differentiates QM2 from every other passenger ship.

The interview is posted at http://www.beyondships.com/QM2-Fischer.html I hope you enjoy it.

There is something about Caribbean Princess

I recently returned form a cruise on Caribbean Princess. The ship is the fourth one to be built on the design first inaugurated with the Grand Princess. There are now ten Grand-class ships - - nine with Princess and one with P&O cruises. All are massive ships ranging from 108,000 to 116,000 tons and carrying 3,000 plus passengers. Their steep white sides tower over you like a building when you are standing on the pier.

Although these ships spring from the same basic design, there are differences. Some have more decks than others, some have a pod suspended above the stern that houses a nightclub, and some have what looks like jet engines around the funnel. Along the same lines, Princess has developed new ideas for amenities and facilities over time and consequently, there are differences in that you will find inside the ships. While the line strives to retro-fit the earlier ships with the things that have proven a success on subsequent ships, that process in itself leads to differences.

There is also the fact that even physically identical ships have different personalities. This is a function of a host of factors including the captain and the crew. The original personalities often leave their mark on the way things are done on a ship. Subsequent, personalities may make changes but the atmosphere on board will never be identical to that on board the ship’s physically identical sister.

Caribbean Princess has a quiet unassuming personality. The ship’s interior is physically attractive and well-maintained. Indeed, there are areas such as the atrium that are quite pretty but it is never overpowering. There is no neon, nothing intended to shock the senses.

Things tend to move smoothly on Caribbean Princess. The service in the cabins and the restaurants was good throughout my voyage. Moreover, there was always something going on or something to do. Indeed, I was impressed by the fact that thee were activities on the ship even when she was in port - - a recognition of the fact that for some passengers the ship is the destination.

This year, Caribbean Princess is taking over the itineraries done in the past by her sister Crown Princess - - sailing from San Juan in the winter and from New York in the warmer months. Accordingly, I expected to find veterans of Crown Princess on this cruise. While there were some, most of the past passengers seemed to be followers of Caribbean Princess. There was something about this ship in particular that they liked, something intangible. Indeed, it is difficult not to like Caribbean Princess.

My photo tour of Caribbean Princess as well as copies of menus, daily programs and other materials are at: http://beyondships.com/Princess-CB-Profile.html

Coping with Single Supplements

Almost all modern cruise ships are built with staterooms designed for two or more people. As a result, there are only a few ships - - primarily older ones - - that have cabins designed for single occupancy. Consequently, when a single person wants to cruise, he or she is required to pay a single supplement. These supplements can range up to 200 per cent of the per person cost of a ticket for a double occupancy cabin.

The theory underlying why the cruise lines charge a single supplement is that since the space was designed to be occupied by two people, the cruise line would be losing out on half of the revenue the ship was designed to generate if the cabins were sold to singles at the double occupancy per person rate. The line does have some cost savings in the amount of food consumed when there is one person in a cabin but this is not a significant savings and is offset by the loss in revenue in the bars, shops and shore excursions that the line would have received if there had been a second person in the cabin.

Nonetheless, many single travelers are upset by having to pay a single supplement. Nobody likes to feel that they are paying more than someone else for the same thing. Also, the single supplement makes taking a cruise more expensive for singles.

The first concern is somewhat illusory. A person paying the single supplement and obtaining a cabin single occupancy does get something that the person traveling double occupancy does not get - - he or she gets the cabin to himself or herself while the person in the double occupancy cabin has to share.

In addition, while in theory the single traveler pays more, this is not always so in reality. These days there can be very large differences in the price of a cruise depending upon a host of factors such as when the cruise was booked and which travel agent the parties used. In addition, if the cruise is not selling well, the line may drop or reduce the single supplement so as to get people on the ship. Thus, a single person can end up paying the same or even less than the per person rate for the couple in the next cabin. It does require more shopping around on the part of the single traveler but it can be done.

As to affordability, most people realize that the cruise line could not stay in business if it sold a significant portion of the cabins on each cruise on a single occupancy basis at the per person double occupancy rate. The solution appears to be to build ships like in the old days that had some single occupancy cabins. However, if one looks at the brochures for a ship such as the QE2, one sees that the rate for a single cabin is more than the per person rate for the same category double cabin. In effect, there is a single supplement built into the single cabin rate.

To a certain extent, the concern over the single supplement is a product of the pricing model used in the cruise industry. In most major hotels, the rate for a room is the same regardless of how many people are staying for the night and no one gets upset. The cruise industry has elected not to follow that model but rather advertise prices on a per person basis. As a result, the numbers used in the advertisement are lower and thus more attractive. However, this model produces the opposite result (i.e., it makes the cruise appear to be more expensive) in those instances where there will be less than two people in the cabin. It may be a matter of perception, but until it is more widely explained it will continue to upset people and thus affect sales.

What I have found that works best for me when I am considering cruising by myself is to price the cruise without regard to the per person double occupancy rate or the single supplement. I am just looking for a number - - the price that will be charged to me. If it is a reasonable number and one that I can afford, I book the cruise. Since the actual single fare is rarely advertised, this process requires getting quotes for the cruise which can be done by talking with travel agents or by going online to a number of websites.

Carnival Miracle

For Carnival Miracle the tile “fun ship” is more than just an advertising slogan. When you walk on board, you find yourself in a whimsical theme park created by Carnival designer Joe Farcus. The Bacchus Dining Room is deep purple with large purple globes hanging from the ceiling like bunches of grapes. “I feel as if I’m in a bottle of red wine,” I heard someone say. Along the same lines, a giant statue of Frankenstein dominates the dance floor in the multi-deck night club, Dr. Frankenstein’s Laboratory. The theater presents an imaginary Paris Opera House torn from the pages of the Phantom of the Opera. The theme of the ship’s decor is famous fictional characters and the passenger is cast into their dream world.

At the same time, there is a more serious side to Carnival Miracle. The ship is one of Carnival’s Spirit class and is built on the popular Vista hull. She is longer and lower than Carnival’s larger variations on the Destiny-class design and has an azipod propulsion system rather than a traditional propeller shaft arrangement. Consequently, she is more suited for longer voyages across more varied seas.

This allows the ship to be used for longer cruises from New York. Also, because the cruises are longer, they require passengers who have more vacation time. Therefore, her captain Claudio Cupisti notes, Miracle attracts a more “cosmopolitan” passenger. I recently had the chance to revisit Carnival Miracle and have put together a new photo essay of exterior shots of the ship. In addition, I have enhanced my existing profile of Miracle with additional photos, a new copy of the daily program Carnival Capers, and a menu from the ship’s specialty restaurant Nick and Nora’s supper club. The new essay appears at: http://beyondships.com/CarnivalMiracle-NewYork.html

Cruise Note - - What does the pilot do?

When a cruise ship is coming into port, those up strolling the deck notice that the ship will slow down and a small boat will approach the side. As the boat approaches, the ship’s crew opens one of the side doors in the hull and a ladder is lower down. Then, as the small boat bounces along in the ship’s wake, someone grabs the ladder and quickly climbs the ladder into the ship. With the pilot safe on board, the ship picks up speed and heads toward the harbor.

Pilots are local officials or persons licensed by the port to assist the ships entering and leaving a port. They are familiar with the local waters and provide guidance on navigation in those waters. Their knowledge goes beyond what is set forth on the navigational charts. They know such things as whether a sandbar has shifted recently, the strength of the current due to recent rainfall, and any movement in the shipping channels. Therefore, a good pilot’s advice is extremely useful to the ship’s captain.

Contrary to popular belief, the captain does not cede command to the pilot. Rather, the pilot is an advisor. If the captain is familiar with a certain pilot, the captain may go as far as to allow the pilot to give orders to the helmsman steering the ship. However, if it is obvious that the pilot just got his job through political patronage, the captain may well ignore him. The captain retains overall responsibility and thus the argument that an accident was the pilot’s fault does not get the captain very far.

There is one exception to this rule. In the Panama Canal, the captain does cede responsibility to the pilot. This is a recognition that navigating that system of locks requires a specialized expertise.

There are several types of pilots. For example, in New York, there are pilots who specialize in bringing the ships into and out of the finger piers along the Hudson River. They are called “docking pilots”. There are also pilots who are familiar with the shipping lanes and bringing the ship out to sea after the docking pilot has brought the ship into the river. They are known as “river pilots”. This is why passengers leaving Manhattan’s Passenger Ship Terminal will see the ship slow down once it is headed down river and someone climb into a tug boat that has come along side. Then, once the ship is out of the harbor, a small boat comes along side and yet another person departs.

Meals fit for a Queen

The Cunard queens have long been associated in the public imagination with style and elegance and so passengers coming on board Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 expect a luxury cruise experience. Dining is, of course, a key element of this experience and the cooking is a crucial part of the dining experience. Yet, how do you provide such food for some 2,600 guests who are eating throughout the day in ten different dining venues that range from an English pub to a five-star restaurant.

The man in charge of performing this task is Klaus Kremer, Executive Chef of the Queen Mary 2. Klaus has been with Cunard for 20 years and is thus familiar with the line’s traditional approach to cruising. However, he is also aware that there has been an evolution in cooking and the tastes of today’s passengers are not those of earlier generations.

Recently, I had the opportunity to talk with the chef about some of the challenges he faces and about how his massive operation works. It is posted along with several photos of the ship’s galleys at http://www.beyondships.com/QM2-Kremer-1.html

Small things that make a cruise special

I was watching a program about a cruise ship on the television recently. It had some very good shots of the ship and covered all of the facilities, the entertainment, the accommodations and the dining. Yet, I felt that it really did not get to what makes cruising special.

These days, all of the major cruise lines provide very good venues for a vacation. The ships are beautifully decorated, have nice accommodations and with some exceptions, have similar amenities. They differentiate themselves primarily by style. Some lines are more casual than formal while others emphasize the intellectual side of life over physical activity. Thus, the most important factor in selecting a cruise is to pick a cruise line that is in harmony with ones lifestyle.

Of course, there are horror stories about what can happen on a cruise but such instances are the rare exception rather than the rule. Most cruises are free of untoward incidents. However, what makes a given cruise a great experience rather than an okay time is the sum of the little things that happen during the cruise - - the people one meets, the things one sees, who you are with etc.

While much of this is outside of the cruise line's control, there are little things that a line can do to help make the days special. For example, a recent cruise to the Bahamas on Cunard's Queen Mary 2 included Easter Sunday. Quietly and with no fanfare, chocolate bunnies accompanied by chocolate eggs and jelly beans appeared in various locations around the ship on the Sunday morning. In the main dining room, a bunny ice sculpture was placed near the entrance during dinner. Of course, this was a treat for the numerous children onboard. However, it also was a nice touch that helped to make the voyage stand out for everyone.

Photos of the bunnies and other decorations are posted at: http://www.beyondships.com/QM2-Easter.html

Celebrity Galaxy

I recently went aboard Celebrity Galaxy. Although a large ship, 77,000 gross tons, with so many ships now in service at over 100,000 tons, the Galaxy has a relatively intimate feel. This feeling is furthered by a friendly crew and a relaxed atmosphere.

Galaxy is a sophisticated ship. The decor is late 20th century modern with an extensive collection of good quality contemporary artwork. Some of these are rather whimsical like the lifesize statue of a cartoon-style ship's officer in the main lobby. Others are more serious. There are also interesting contrasts such as the multi-deck high copy of an 18th century French painting of a woman on a swing facing the geometric black and white reception desk.

The type of passenger that Galaxy appeals to is similarly sophisticated. They tend to be experienced travelers who have been many places and who have cruised before. They seek a taste of luxury and some formality but also a relaxed atmosphere.

My photo tour and commentary on Celebrity Galaxy begins at http://beyondships.com/Celebrity-Galaxy-Tour-1.html.

Carnival Glory

I write about ships, most often about cruise ships. Over the last 20 years, I have done about 100 cruises and visited many more ships. In the course of these voyages, I have interviewed captains and cruise line executives, written articles and taken numerous photographs. Last year, I thought it might be a good idea to assemble what I have done and am doing into a website that would act as a resource for people who are interested in ships. This would include people who are planning to travel on a particular ship or line, people who have traveled on that ship or line and people who find ships interesting.

I have posted on the Beyondships website a section dedicated to Carnival Glory. It includes a profile page with ship statistics, menus, daily programs and other information. http://www.beyondships.com/CarnivalGlory-profile.html In addition, there is a multi-page photo tour and commentary on the ship starting at http://www.beyondships.com/CarnivalGlory-Tour-1.htm

Glory is a Conquest class cruise ship of 110,000 tons. As such, it is a member of the largest class of ships in the Carnival Cruise Lines fleet. It also includes Carnival Conquest, Carnival Liberty, Carnival Valor, and Carnival Freedom.

The Conquest class is an outgrowth of the popular Destiny class. This includes not only Carnival Destiny but also Carnival Triumph and Carnival Victory. The ships are technologically similar and if you know the layout of one class you will not get lost in the other.

One of the fascinating things about Carnival is that it strives to make each ship in its fleet different. It does this primarily by changing the decor of each ship. This does not mean that they simply paint a room blue in one ship and paint the corresponding room in the next ship yellow. Rather, interior designer Joseph Farcus starts with a new theme for each ship and develops that theme throughout the ship. Thus, one ship may be cities of the world and another fictional characters. In the case of Glory, the theme is color and how it has been used in different parts of the world. These themes can develop into a decor that is quite whimisical, almost theme park-like, or into a restrained elegeance. You can see this by comparing the photo tours of the four Carnival ships now featured on the Beyondships website: Glory, Triumph, Miracle and Victory.

The reason to applaud Carnival's efforts in this regard is that ships should have their own personalities. This is both a tradition of the sea and something which makes ones voyage more interesting. If all the ships in a cruise line's fleet were the same, it would be just like an airline where the planes are just a fungible means of transportation. To me, if ships became similarly fungible, it would make cruising much less interesting.